Saturday, 24 May 2014

Life on the road

A common question I get asked is if I get homesick. My answer is always no. Sure I miss family and close friends. New Zealand is a beautiful country and I love it. I also miss New Zeland wine and some of my favourite foods. But I guess my position right now is I would rather they all came with me! I relate more to the German word 'fernweh' which means homesick for places you've never been. I can't get enough of being around different culture, people, language, landscape and food.

Following that question I get this one -don't you get tired of living out of a suitcase? My suitcase may be bursting at the seams and be a mission to repack and close shut every 2nd morning but in reality I had the same issues with my drawers. Give me a bigger wardrobe, drawer or suitcase, it will always be full. Just like no matter what time I need to be ready in the morning whether it be 6am or 11am I am always in a rush. Somehow I fill whatever is available to me whether that is space or time! 

Travelling is so tiring, especially non stop travelling while working hard and playing hard. Yet the love and passion I have for it and the inspiration I get from it energises me and outweighs the physical exhaustion. Lazing in the sun outside our guesthouse in the Austrian alps, showing passengers the quirky sites of beautiful Prague and having masquerades in Venice!




The first day of the trip we arrive in Paris and head on a driving tour of the city after dinner. This is one of the most rewarding parts of the trip for me. As we head around the sites and I yarn to the group it takes me back to my assignment before even beginning the training for this job. Looking up photos for the sites and following it up with information, taking sooooo much longer than I ever though it would. Planned to be done a few days before Christmas so I could relax with the family. You can imagine the frustration when I was only 2/3rds of the way through by 2am on Christmas Day. I wanted to throw the laptop against the wall and quit. I am SO pleased I kept going. 

I keep my group distracted out the right window hunting for topless waiters and waitresses in a restaurant (fake yarn) while the coach comes into perfect position with the Eiffel Tower, I tell them to look left. Try to time it perfectly when it sparkles on the hour. Though I have seen it numerous times myself now I don't think I will ever get sick of the sighs, the oooo's and camara clicks that happen in that moment. The first of many moments they will be wowed on the journey of the stunning continent of Europe - the trip of a lifetime that people work so hard for and hearing that realisation click into place that they have arrived is so satisfying.

So many highlights from this 28 day trip with a wonderful group of people. I love that one day I am running in a Valley in Switzerland, a couple of days later along the waterfront in the French Riviera and another day out in the Tuscan country in Italy. Such a privilege. My running stopped after this thanks to a bout of Bronchitis. Took myself to the doctor while on Pag Island Croatia. Not a lot of English was spoken so I was somewhat confused when I was injected in the butt and put on a drip through the arm for 45mins. Still no idea what that was all about. Anyway got on the old antibiotics and tried to catch up on some zzzzz's. My scissors got a work out on Pag Island with a whopping 10 haircuts.

Had this amazing meal in Florence  yum!
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Rome is incredible - all the ancient ruins and the history but now that I have been I have to be honest and when I arrive I can't wait to leave. I do however love wandering around Florence and Venice. We also make a day stop at a cute village sitting on top of a hill called Orvieto, it's so great going somewhere with more locals and less tourists. A couple of happy snaps I took on my Italian wanders -




I went for the most incredible bike ride I think I have ever done while staying in the Austrian Alps. Me and two of my girls did a 50km bike ride around a mountain called Kalkstein which took us through 6 completely different villages and we came across a random mini theme park in one of them! Villages where not a word of English was spoken. We went along roads, along paths, along rivers, through fields of dandelions, daisy's and buttercups, cold valleys with cliffs either side of us, snow almost close enough to touch, passed traditional Austrian houses, baroque churches, a lake, cows with bells grazing - so high on beautiful fresh mountain air and scenery soo stunning there are no words to describe it. New fond memories formed - singing sound of music with the girls as we biked along and also when we didn't have to peddle and the downward slope sent us flying through a gorgeous valley!




When we returned from this I went straight to the airport and followed 12 of my passengers with one of the best things you can do ever and skydived over the alps that I had just been biking around. The snowy alps went as far as the eye could see and being skydive #5 I was feeling more relaxed and could take it in enjoying the flight, fall and landing.

As I write this we are travelling from Berlin to Amsterdam. I had such a good time in Berlin. I broke my 8 day no alcohol fast with a nice glass of wine over dinner - such an achievement with this job, pretty sure I deserve a medal. A couple of us hired bikes and cruised through the various parks, past the east side galleries Berlin Wall and along the river and had lunch in a beer garden before returning the bikes. Dinner at the Hofbrauhaus Berlin beer hall where numerous people ordered pork knuckle, I got myself schnitzel and a 1L stein and we enjoyed the sound of an oompa band playing in the background. 




Sunday brunch is planned with two old school friends who now live in Amsterdam and then looking forward to a few days off to organise myself and catch up with friends in London. Maybe a sneaky trip to Majorca if time allows before I head out with another group :)
Ciao for now!

Sunday, 4 May 2014

Turkish Delight



It felt appropriate flying to Turkey alongside an Australian, my friend and work mate Sarah, and meeting up with other Aussie and kiwi friends given we were headed to Gallipoli to pay our respects to the men who fought on behalf of the Australian New Zealand Army Corps in WW1 against the Turks.

We boarded our Turkish airlines flight and before we even took off, the flight attendants were handing out little Turkish delights! In the words of the cherry Englishman next to me "What a delight!" I immediately think how my Dad would appreciate this comment. This little morsel left us wanting more. More we would get once we reached Turkish land.

Istanbul airport was definitely not the most organised airport I have been too. The que was hideous and an hour later we made it through to the baggage carousel where we waited for the luggage we thought would have long been waiting for us to come past on the belt, it didn't come out. Our waiting was in vain and we realised this when Sarah went for a wander around the other side and saw our bags hanging out on the ground hence they weren't circulating on the belt. 

Water and bathroom break, a couple of hours after landing we were now on our way to the metro! Dumping our bags at our hotels could not come soon enough. We notice very few other blondes around and in fact not a lot of women alone in general. We also notice the men are unashamed to stare and mutter things in Turkish as you pass by. 

We part ways to check into our different hotels and make contact with the fellow Topdeck workmates in town and arrange to meet them at a bar in the old town of Istanbul. The sun went down quickly after I left my hotel and I suddenly had that feeling that maybe I should not be walking alone right now as the only other human spieces around was that of the male variety. I didn't see one other blonde and the only women I saw were with partners and mostly had head scarfs on. So naturally I tensed every muscle in my face to give my best effort at looking unapproachable, I quicken my pace and stare straight ahead avoiding eye contact - this proved embarrassing when I tripped twice along the way. 

Every 10 steps someone would be approaching me asking if I'd like to buy something, asking where I was from, if I needed help, was I lost or would I marry them. It was unavoidable though as it is not safe for a girl to jump in a cab straight off the steet in Istanbul - it must be called by a hotel or restaurant/bar for your best chances not to have a dodgy driver. However I was quite ok and the walk got better when I caught my first glimpse of the Blue mosque and Aya Sofia.



The next morning a group of us Trip leaders were briefed on how our 4 day trips were to go. I managed to squeeze in a traditional Turkish kebab for lunch with Sarah and also my two really good friends, Hayley and Logan from New Zealand who also happened to be in Istanbul. By 2pm I was all set up in my hotel lobby to meet passengers until 6pm. I met my Turkish guide, Onur, who I would be working alongside then we had a meeting with all the passengers to run through our plan for the next few days. Once the admin was out of the way it was time to head out to sit on cushions at low tables to get to know each other, enjoy some Turkish cuisine and smoke some shisha.




Making our way back to the hotel about midnight, I still had to pack a small bag for our journey to Gallipoli and wanted to run through my spiel on ANZAC and WW1 (see my last blog titled ANZAC). With a massive 45 minutes sleep once I woke at 4:30am I was unsure how I was going to cope with the next 72hours. Knowing tonight would spent under the stars in the open awaiting the ANZAC dawn service.

Hitting the road just after 6am we were on our way to ANZAC cove on the Gallipoli peninsula of Turkey. We made fantastic time getting ourselves in a good position in the que and due to this privilege we had the consequence of a lot of waiting! It was a stunning, hot day and we had a nice shady area near the beach to spend the afternoon. Hundreds of young  people gathered, playing hacky, lounging on hammocks and going for short walks would have been a visual contrast to the allied soldiers that 99 years earlier also occupied this beach front.




There was about a 3km walk between here and the entrance to ANZAC cove where the grand stands were set up for the service. This walk was beautiful. Before reaching the ANZAC cove entrance there were a couple of cemeteries that could be visited. One laying next to the beach. One was even right up high on a hill looking down over ANZAC cove. 



By 6pm they opened the security gates and we all filed through to find a good possy for the night. Between the grand stands were grassy areas for those sleeping over to camp out. Myself and fellow Topdeck crew laid out our sleeping bags on the front right facing the stage. I was wowed by the scenery I was surrounded by. Behind me was sheer cliffs and in front of me was the stage with the most beautiful ocean backdrop. This beauty was emphasised as the sun fell. Photos simply don't do the setting justice. What rang through my thoughts was how something so ugly could happen somewhere so beautiful. 





Having packed and prepared for the worst in terms of cold, wind and rain it became chilly but no worse. We had perfect conditions and a clear starry nice. Packed in like sardines there was a sea of sleeping bags. Quite funny to look around. Some down curled up fast asleep and some watching the countless documentaries being played on the big screens. As well as the documentaries, musical items were played through out the night. 

Topdeck crew all had 45 minute slots at certain points throughout the night on the info desk in case passengers needed assistance. Of course I got 2:45am through til 3:30am. I fell asleep about 1am, apparently missed the most amazing choir - although I swear I dreamt of angels singing. I woke at 2:30 feeling like I was floating away in some sort of crazy world and wasn't sure of where I was while an incredible symphony orchestra played pulled me out of sleep. Seeping into every part of me as I woke - the music that was playing was actually indescribable. I got up to get ready to take my turn at the post. Tip toeing over the sleeping bodies to make my way to clear ground and the info site. 


Once I was up at 2:30 I was up for the day. So over the two nights I had had 2hrs and 15minutes sleep. Somehow still coping. The dawn service was an incredible moving experience. Follow if the service, everyone departed on the walk to either Lone Pine (Australian memorial service) or Chunuk Bair (New Zealand's memorial service. It was a bit like a pilgrimage walk the path that our soldiers once walked in battle. Sitting upon where many of their bones lay to pay respect to their bravery. Gazing out towards the Dardenelles, the strip of water on the other side of the peninsula and think how it must have felt to be one of those kiwi soldiers to reach this high ground and see this. I was able to do this walk and NZ service with one of my very best friends and her husband (Hayley and Logan who I mentioned earlier). 



The rain held off till coach loading time, groups and groups of people huddled together as it poured and eagerly awaited their coach number to be called. We only waited about half an hour before we were on our way! Hurrah! Adrenalin pumping from such a busy and emotion filled time somehow I still did not nod off to sleep on the coach. I think knowing I had to push through for one more outing with the group before bed kept me going. 

We had a nice terrace area for our Turkish cuisine and shisha tonight. When I got back to my room I lay on my bed and checked my phone. The next thing I knew my hotel phone was ringing and it was the Turkish guide asking whether he meets me in reception of breakfast room - right now! Argggh! It's 8:30am and I still have yesterday's make up and clothes on, fell asleep before setting an alarm, have to leave on Istanbul walking tour by 9am and had said to passengers I'd be around at breakfast from 8! Oops. Not to mention I hadn't packed my bag ready for check out yet! Mad stressful panicked rush, somehow all gets sorted and off we go - I just feel out of sorts in my head. Seems my lack of sleep finally caught up.

Relaxed over my last Turkish meal at lunch with other Topdeck crew after we farewelled our passengers before heading back to my hotel to repack for my flight. Couldn't help but go via the famous grand bazaar to pick up some more Turkish delight and a beautiful Turkish scarf!


Thanks to a very late taxi we had a stressful ride crawling in rush hour traffic to the airport getting their only 1 hour before our flight. Begging airport staff to help us get through quickly we make it in time to still board our flight and next thing we know we are sitting on that plane winging our way back to London Town. Even scored the exit isle giving us HEAPS of leg room - amazing. 


All in all it was a whirlwind but an amazing experience that I was so honoured to have. I can't wait to get back to experience more Turkish delights!










Wednesday, 23 April 2014

ANZAC

In a couple of hours I will be getting ready to leave my hotel in Istanbul along side my fellow Turkish guide and my Turkish driver to take 44 Australian, New Zealand and British passengers to the Gallipoli peninsula of Turkey for the 99th anniversary since the ill fated ANZAC campaign which took place there in WW1.

How do we go from fighting against them a century ago to myself and my Aussie/NZ colleagues working alongside the Turkish today? 
If you feel like a wee read in memorium of the ANZACs in the lead up to ANZAC day here is the jist  of the spiel I have prepared to deliver by heart on our way to Gallipoli.





So we find ourselves at the beginning of the 21st century. During this time a lot of young New Zealanders and Australians find themselves priveledged enough to be travelling to the complete opposite side of the world, as far as you can possibly fly, to discover the United Kingdom and Europe. Whether this is via a holiday or possibly getting a visa (which most are lucky enough to obtain if so desired) and coming to work with the means to then travel out from there. It is a stark contrast to the young New Zealanders and Australians who came to this side of the world one year short of a century ago.

I want to paint a picture for you. One to set the scene of the story of these young Aussies and Kiwis. As I did my research on the ANZAC campaign I wanted to go back far enough to understand how it was that the ANZACs became involved in a war on the other side of the globe! Right now at the beginning of the 21st c. there are definitely tensions and problems within our world. Also, Europe was not a stranger to war before this time but I am going to focus in on the beginning of the 20th c. and this period of rising tension among the European powers. Competition to have the best military resources and great economic situations was at play. This was complicated further still with the alliances formed between different countries. These alliances were ought to make Europe feel safer but ultimately did the opposite and cultivated paranoia and distrust. These aligned powers effectively formed two sides and tension was thick.

Spring had sprung and as the weather warmed Europeans were becoming increasingly excited for the approaching family times and beach holidays. What actually lay ahead, still unbeknownst to them and a nightmare becoming reality was the Great War. 
So what was the straw that broke the camels back? What caused this tension to erupt? 
Just as it is unbelievable that a straw could break a camels back, so it is with the events that led the world into the greatest war the face of the earth had so far seen.

The Austro-Hungarian Empire was one the largest powers within Europe before the outbreak of World War One. So large that it stretched from Northern Italy, down the Dalmatian Coast where Croatia lies, across to the Transylvanian Mountains and further north than where the cities of Prague and Krakow sit. So this empire was large! Think about the land that covers and the nationalities within it. There were Hungarians, Germans, Polish, Czech, Ukranian, Slovak, Slovene, Croatians, Serbs, Italians and Romanians. As you can only imagine the political organisation of this empire would be complex to say the least. 

Particularly the Serbs had a real national pride (and so any nation should have the right to be proud of their own identity). The Austrians had been contemplating the need to challenge this Serbian nationalism and bring them down a peg or two. Little did they realise the excuse to challenge them was approaching.
The emperor at the time was Franz Josef. His nephew, Franz Ferdinand was the heir to the Habsburg (Austrian rulers) throne. Franz Ferdinand and his wife were visiting Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia on the 28th June 1914. Unfortunately for them and ultimately the rest of the world, this was a fatal visit, not just for them but for the millions more that fell through WW1. During their motorcade in Sarajevo they were attacked by a radical Serbian nationalist, Gavrilo Princip. This is the straw that broke the camels back.

Austria was clearly upset at this attack and blamed Serbia for supporting this terrorism.  Austria gave Serbia the ultimatum - to cease all the anti Austrian activity and start a full investigation into it. Maybe ultimately asking them to let go of all nationalism and be submissive to the empire? When Serbia refused, the dominoes began to fall. It gets messy and can seem complicated but bear with me as I try to describe what I mean by the dominoes falling.

Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia on the 28 July 1914, exactly one month after the assassination. They did this knowing full well that Germany had their back but also knowing Russia was an ally of Serbia so would therefore enter this war against them, fighting for Serbia. This didn't stop them. August 1 Germany declared war on Russia. Of course it gets more complicated as Russia is friends with France. Have you been to Paris? Home to the most elegant bridge in the world, the Pont Alexandre lll. If you haven't seen it, google the images. This bridge was inaugurated in 1900 for the world expo and was named after Russia's leader Tsar Alexandre lll. This was a physical representation of the Franco-Russian alliance. Basically France was saying "hey world, yip, we're friends with that big guy over there - Russia". As you can imagine, two big powers on either sides of this continent declaring they were friends could have seemed quite the threat and piled on the tension. So this meaning Germany declared war on France also. 

This latest declaration brought this war further to the attention of another empire though. The British empire, who had sworn to protect wee Belgium who lay in the north between these two large countries at war, France and Germany. Britain sent Germany the message that if they invaded Belgium to get to France, Britain would have no choice but to become involved. So as the dominoes continued to fall, Germany entered Belgium and Britain then declared war on Germany. In less than a month not only was almost the entire continent of Europe dragged into this war but The British empire as well which included countries such as Australia, New Zealand, India, South Africa and Canada. By mid summer the Great War was well and truly under way.

The two sides of WW1 were the Allies - Russia, France and the British empire later joined by Italy and the USA and the other side being the Central powers - Austria- Hungary and Germany later joined by the Turks. The Turks were under the Ottoman Empire which had shrunk since seeing its height in the 16th-17th c. The Turks entered the war due to pressure from Germany to join in alliance with them and keep them from joining with the Allies. Germany wanted to gain Ottoman support to encourage Romania and Bulgaria to also enter the Central Powers Alliance.  On the most part World War One was played out on two main arenas, the Western front on French land and the Eastern front in Russia.

On August the 5th 1914 leaders of both Australia and New Zeland declared to the people of these countries that as their empire had entered into war, so had they. The people of Australia and New Zealand were flung into this war they didn't quite understand with no choice in the matter and neither did they want a choice. In fact as recruitment for the Australian and New Zealand Armies commenced young men were eager to get enrolled. Even underaged boys raised their ages to be accepted. There was a real sense of national pride growing for both of these young nations and were part of a mighty empire they were keen to defend. There was actually excitement amongst these young men about the warfare and they were ready for this adventure.

The entry of Turkey into the war posed a threat to Russia and also the British ruled Egypt. This is because it meant that the thin strip of water known as the Dardenelles, between the European and Asian sides of Turkey, leading up to the Black Sea was tightly closed off to the Allies.
Winston Churchill being the 1st Lord admiral for Britain at the time devised a plan to open this up for the Allies for better or another access to the Eastern Front on Russian land. He thought it would be a good idea to send Troops up the Dardenelles with the aim of taking Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) and kicking Turkey out of the war and to then send help for Russia on the Eastern Front battlefields. Easy right? No, not so much. March 18 1915 there were 18 British and French battleships heading up the Dardenelles, soon to be over when the Turks sunk 3 so the rest withdrew. Back to the drawing board it was. This time the plan was to attack the land lying to the west of the Dardenelles, the Gallipoli peninsula to then allow the navy to get through once this land was in the hand of the Allies. 

Rather than being seen as one with the British troops the Australian and New Zealand troops were given their own name, initially coined the Australasian corps, both countries were reluctant to completely lose their separate national identities so therefore the term ANZACs (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) came about. These keen but inexperienced ANZAC troops had 5 months training in Egypt before jumping on a ship that was Turkey bound. These ships were filled with high spirited cheering men ready for the adventure to begin. A blunder was about to occur though that changed what they had hoped would be a victory into a complete disaster for the Allies.

April 25th 1915 at 4:30am the attack began. Mistakenly, the Australian troops had been dropped higher up the coast than planned and encounted strong resistance and impossible terrain. It was a fatal beginning. Loaded with gear they clawed their way up these unexpected slopes in the dark. It was the last place on the Pennisula anyone would want to carry out a landing. Meanwhile, NZ troops sat out at sea to be used as back up if required. Required they were. Five hours after the Australian landing the impatient NZ troops landed at 9:30am and also encounted the harsh terrain of knee high scrub which proved a challenge to crawl through, a touch different to the training ground of the sands of Egypt. It was disorganised chaos with them all scattered amongst the scrub within this area they were never meant to land.

Ridiculous terrain of scrub, hills, cliffs, valleys and ridges meant the fight was as much with the landscape as it was with the Turks. Their aim was to capture the heights of the Sari Bair range and press inland to cut off Turkish reinforcements to Cape Halles (toe of the Gallipoli peninsula) where the Brits had landed the same day. The ANZAC campaign was basically a diversion to keep the Turks occupied and away from Cape Halles. Though the ANZACs came under heavy fire, they still managed to somewhat push the Turks back enough to reach ground where they could see the Dardenelles. As the day went on, the Turkish resistance strengthened. Dawn til night fall, how they would have longed for this horrid day to end. Nothing like a bad day at work. By the end of this day, none of the objectives had been reached. Commanders on the post recommended withdrawal but an evacuation would have proved fatal as well so they were told to dig dig dig until they were safe. The areas of slopes captured on the 25th April became known as ANZAC for the remainder of the campaign as they tried to continue to push through enemy lines but at the same time their enemy, the Turks tried to drive the ANZACs off the Pennisula. Who can blame them? This was their homeland.

This was the start of what would become 8 months worth of senseless trench warfare. Trench warfare was horrendous. At times ANZAC and Turkish trenches were merely metres apart! From on the beach where they landed up the slopes to the trenches they built, the way was marked with bodies and parts of bodies. On their knees in scrub heavy laden with gear, summer approaching, scorching mid day temperatures, stench from the dead and wounded, disease rife and hopping bullets as if it were hailing around them it would be a soldiers desperate bid for a passport to heaven as they would mutter the Lord's Prayer - "Our father in Heaven, holy be your name. Your kingdom come, your will be done on earth as it is I'm heaven. Give us today our daily bread and forgive us our sins as we forgive those who sin against us. Save us from the time of trial and deliver us from evil. For the kingdom, the power, the glory are yours, now and forever. Amen".

Trench warfare was long. If you stayed still you would get shot, if you advanced as you should, well you'd probably still be shot, but at least you advanced. Can you imagine though, to dare to raise your head above the trench? 
This was actually where the periscope rifle was invented so you could see where you were shooting but keep your head undercover. 

At the start of May some of the ANZAC troops were moved to help the British with a fresh attack at Cape Halles to try and advance further up the Pennisula. Soldiers who survived this said those that obeyed the orders and advanced were basically agreeing to suicide. One of these soldiers told the story of how he refused and said to one of the commanders that this was senseless death as he saw the ANZACs drop like flies. The Turkish line was not reached while 1000 Australians and 800 New Zealanders were killed or wounded in this attempt to advance. By mid May the attempt to capture the Dardenelles for the Allies had failed but the Allies still clung to the small gains they had made. Reaching somewhat of a stale mate the Turks mounted an attack in the hope to finally drive the ANZACs off the peninsula. Still dark on the 19th May the Turks began their attack, wave after wave. The ANZACs hit back with a strong fire which kept the Turks for the most part from entering ANZAC trenches. The Turks pushed on for about 6 hours without making ground. This proved to be a failure for the Turks as 10,000 of their men were hit and 3000 lay dead between the lines. In comparison the ANZACs lost only a fraction of men in this battle. On the 24th May the Turkish waved a truce flag to arrange to permit the burial of the Turkish bodies that had been lying out in the open since the battle on the 19th. During cease fires, both sides were known to share rations and cigarettes. After all they were both under command of the empires they belonged to.

Another attempt to reach higher ground was again made by the British at the beginning of August. Supporting attacks were planned at Lone Pine and a narrow ridge known as the Nek. On the afternoon of the 6th of August at Lone Pine the Australians attacked and occupied the enemies frontline positions but the Turkish were determined with counter attacks! The next day at the Nek, there was intense fighting in close quarters on this narrow ridge, four waves of Australians were cut down before they reached the enemy line. Following this, the main attack was played out by a mix of New Zealanders, Australians, British and Indians heading towards the heights of a hill called Chunuk Bair and other nearby peaks. If these positions could be captured and held, it was believed a breakout for the Allies towards the Dardenelles was possible. With steep slopes and deep gullies, some units became lost in this wild country and the planned assaults were often carried out too late without enough support. 

Through desperate fighting and great losses along the way, the New Zealanders reached the Chunuk Bair summit and were able to look up the Dardenelles. Unfortunately for the Allies this success was fleeting, the determined Turks regained the summit which meant this August initiative had also failed. With mounting criticism of this whole campaign the British decided on no more major attacks at Gallipoli. How to withdraw from the Pennisula without countless fatalities though? In November, as temperatures plummeted, men froze at their posts and 16,000 troops suffering from frost bite and exposure had to be evacuated. A careful thought out plan with precautions was played out to deceive the Turks into thinking nothing unusual was happening when they began to withdraw the troops between 8-20 December 1915 and then the last were withdrawn from Cape Halles on the 8th and 9th Jan 1916.

Bravery and endurance was proven from the soldiers of both sides in this campaign at Gallipoli. Both sides suffered great losses. The men, protecting their homeland, the Turks, lost the most, 87,000 of their men died in this battle and almost a couple of hundred thousand more injured. The Allies also suffering the loss of 44,000 men. Amongst those killed were British, French, Indians and even Newfoundlanders (a part of the British empire) Of these men that were killed 8,700 were Australians and 2,700 were New Zealanders. Count to 10, each number you count represents a face, a life, a son, a brother, a husband, a family who lost their loved one. Even counting to 10 is too many.... 8,700 Australians, 2,700 New Zealanders. 87,000 Turks. It was 1 out of every 4 NZ men that had enrolled in the war that died at Gallipoli. On top of this, the number of wounded Allies was 97,000. A costly failure in both lives and money with no real success.

There was always a certain amount of respect the ANZACs and the Turks had for each other as I mentioned the sharing of rations, they also helped each other clear bodies and there were countless stories of where they reached out to each other in understanding. This respect was shown further by the Turkish commander at the time of the Gallipoli campaign, Mustafa Kemel Ataturk. Following WW1 he led the Turkish War of Independence and led Turkey into a time of modernisation. He was the first President of Turkey and was given the name Ataturk which means 'Father of the Turks'. No body else can ever be given this name. Being somewhat of a peacemaker he also paved good relations with the Allies he had been fighting off at Gallipoli and it is him we can thank for being warmly welcomed now. In 1934 he said this of the ANZAC soldiers -
"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives…
You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours…
You, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace, after having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well."



Most nations celebrate old victories. For most of the world this was a sickening sideshow of WW1 best forgot. For Australia and New Zealand, ANZAC is different. It is the rememberance of an agonising defeat. A whole world away from where these soldiers were from, they had never been so close to making great history but neither had they suffered such brutal hurt. The ANZAC legend has become an important part of the national identity and pride for both Australia and New Zealand. Hold your head up, be proud of our men who fought hard for our countries, who put their lives on the line and displayed such bravery. Let us also enjoy the special bond and friendship between Australia and New Zealand.

Lest we forget.


 

Sunday, 20 April 2014

London is calling

With the sun shining and blossoms blooming this was a much nicer welcome into London than the snow I had on arrival 13 months ago. Despite blue skies there was still that crisp English chill in the air which meant a jacket was still required and the kiwi desire to have mostly naked feet in either jandals or sandals was still not quite justifiable yet!
I was suprised how very much at home I felt arriving back into London. So familiar. I topped up my London transport oyster card and was on my way, back on the tube like no time had passed. 



When I looked up the definition of 'home' it read; where one resides permanently. According to this definition I am homeless! I am ok with that though. In fact, right in this moment I wouldn't have it any other way. As I dwelt on this further though, I came up with my own definitions of 'home'
1. Home is where I lay my head to rest - even if only for a night and 
2. Home is a roof over the head and a spot for the suitcase to stay. 
I dwelt further still and thought on the friends, family and even accomodation staff all around the world and how I can feel so 'at home' due to incredible hospitality. So..
3. Home is being in the presence of great company which I feel I am blessed with no short supply.

My cousin and her husband were kind enough to let me crash at their sweet wee apartment in West London. A few days to myself before they return from their own globe trotting adventures. I arrive at my abode for the week about 2pm local time, cart my excessive luggage (aka: my life) up the stairs and once dumping my bags all I want to do is go fast to sleep! I lay down and think through how to fill the hours til a reasonable bed time hour. A walk, supermarket shop, dinner with friends made this attempt successful, and I passed out about 11pm.

I feel sorry for myself the following morning as I woke with a pounding headache. Consequently I treat myself to a lazy start. I did eventually get out to explore 'my new neighbourhood' and spent a couple of hours in the sun but needed to hit the books during the afternoon to study for my up and coming trip to Gallipoli, Turkey. 
With the headache gone and cabin fever taking place from my day mostly indoors I hit the pavement for a jog the next morning. Thinking of pushing my jet lagged body for possibly a 4-5km stint I   instead returned home having done a full 10km. Naturally I was starving now and proceeded to consume more than the amount of calories I had just shed, felling somewhat justified.

Though I travel for my job, there is still an office and office days are required so I ho i ho off to work I go to collect my trip folders for trip #1 of my 2014 season. Such an honour. I will be flying to Istanbul to take a 4 day trip to Gallipoli for ANZAC day. Fully loaded with maps, info, forms, forms and more forms I leave the office eager for Easter weekend approaching with numerous friends arriving into London Town and these catch ups after 5 whole months of absence couldn't come soon enough! Specially when there was an engagement in the mix.

Good Friday was a great Friday. Blue skies and first attempt to make hot cross buns succeeded - I was actually suprised. I don't exactly have the best track record when it comes to domestic/household/kitchen skills, I certainly wouldn't have a place in the nationals, well until now that is.... Perfectly risen buns, beautiful texture and scrumptious deliciousness were fresh and hot out of the oven in time for my cousins return. (Yes that noise you hear is me blowing my own trumpet) I could be a baker yet!


It wasn't just a Good Friday, it was followed up with a good Saturday and Sunday as well. Portobello markets where I rediscovered my passionate hate for crowds but still loved the experience and the food we took away! 


Tonight called for celebrations of my amazing friends engagement so naturally a few glasses of bubbly were had, followed by a few cocktails for us friends to be caught up on all the catching ups and the going ons, there were not enough hours in the night for the yarns to be had. So thus, required a follow up brunch. Eyes on the prize we trudged our way in the pouring rain and cold to the famous breakfast club in the area of Angel. As we awaited a table we shivered and huddled and drooled at any food that passed us by. All worth the wait when I saw the plate! 




Feeling a touch weary due to a somewhat late night out I sign off here to have a good sleep before my last day of preparation before Gallipoli! Then it's back on the metal bird winging my way to Turkey for another exciting adventure.  Weeee!


 




Friday, 18 April 2014

Abu Dhabi in a day

After 5 months of being home in Nu Zalund, the land of the long low vow, my ears almost pricked when I arrived in Sydney airport and was greeted with that 'beautiful' Aussie twang (I love you guys really). I half enjoyed a terrible pasta, the best that was on offer in the transit area before demolishing half a bag of malteasers to make up for the taste dissatisfaction that had occurred. Following this calorie loading session (since I was going to burn so much energy sitting for the next 14hours) I got to board my next flight.

Not only did I have an isle seat, I had a middle seat and a window seat! Of course I didn't allow myself to get too excited about this prospect until people had stopped boarding the flight. Which they now had. The unfortunate end to this tale is that a connecting flight was late and more people were coming aboard. I look down praying Gods favour to bless me with a row to myself when I hear a woman's strong occa Australian accent saying "I can see our seats already son!". My eyes flick up to see this woman with bigger hair than her head gazing at MY other two seats. Alas, I didn't put up a fight and I let her and her son into my territory. Could have been worse, we start to wing away to the fancy sandpit of Abu Dhabi!

As we made out decent into the sandpit I peered out the window to see a perfectly round fiercely bright, large golden sun burning in the sky. So beautiful. The type of sunrise that certainly confirmed we were landing in the desert. Think of the Lion King, yes a cartoon but yes that is exactly what the sun looks like here - unreal. 6:30 in the morning and it is the same temperature if not warmer than what it had been middle of the day back home. Being the fantastic tour guide that I am, I managed to lead myself the wrong way out of the airport after looking at the online map upside down - I blame jet lag. T'was 15minutes and a few drops of sweat later that I look around to see my hotel peeking over the top of the airport on the otherside! Awwwh no! I haul myself and my 30kgs of baggage around and trudge back the other way with all the Arab men that I had just wandered past wondering what this blonde white princess was up to. Desperately wanting to strip my cardy and tights off, I knew this was already too much of a spectacle. I continued my walk within this clothing sauna.

What would have been 10-15min walk had been 40minutes. I was glad to have my work out for the day out of the way by a nice early 7:30am. Reaching reception I chatted to the very lovely lady who informed me that check in is 2pm but I could pay to have the room early. No thanks, I'll drop my bags, grab some breakfast, use the wifi and use the pool showers, venture out and come and check in later. No worries. Meanwhile as I pumped my body with caffeine in the hope it would help me survive this day the receptionist came and found me to say she would let me into the room now - 9am - hallelujah! Looking terrible obviously paid off, she definitely felt sorry for this bedraggled tired woman.

I got to check in, shower, I splayed out on the bed and had to force myself not to sleep so I could make the 11am hotel shuttle into town. I jumped on the bus eager to check out as much as I could even though my eyeballs were hanging out of my head. Coincidentally, unbeknown to both parties at the times of booking my cousin happened to be in Abu Dhabi at the same time so we arranged to meet and had lunch together. Following lunch we lay down on the beach, felt quite strange being in a bikini in Abu Dhabi but yes this is allowed on the beach only. The few burkinis we saw around looked impossibly hot. A couple of dips releaved us of the heat and we had a good wee catch up. Before parting ways she passed me the house keys for London as I would be staying with her but getting back first. Nothing like a wee exchange in the Middle East. 


I piled on the clothes before I left the sand and embarked on my hot midday walk along the corniche (waterfront in Abu Dhabi city). Got myself a little closer to the beautiful emirates palace and got some beautiful photos of the city.

It was like reaching the emerald city at the end of the yellow brick road when I got to the mall. Air conditioning and water had never felt so good! After a wee pick me up here I felt fresh enough to get back to my ventures. I jumped into a taxi and said the big white mosque please and off we went. Such a beautiful building! 

Before I got further, I had to hand over some I.D to borrow a dress thing to cover myself further still! I had to tie a scarf around my head as well. Death in these temperatures! 
 
Just as beautiful inside, I was pleased I had made the effort to come in as I certainly did contemplate not going in when I had to go borrowing a sack to cover myself. It was all the way down some stairs and through a car park, around a corner. Come back up to the temple and then back down the stairs through the car park, around the corner to deliver it back. If you are there, do it. Or be prepared and have your own tent to put on.



I departed here with a taxi to head back to the hotel. I did not like this man. He took me the long way home. I knew this not because I had researched the map but (as I learnt training to be a tour guide - signs are your friends) I saw the sign to the airport (where my hotel was), we went the opposite way, did a loop of the mosque and proceeded on the way. I challenged him and his excuse was that he was from Nepal and doesn't know his way everywhere yet. I told him I had been there half a day and I knew it was the wrong way. Not a very subtle detour for a few extra dirham. Idiot. Out of principle I told him to stop much earlier than my hotel and out of stubbornness I walked the remainder of the way.

I get back to the hotel and I had an hour before the next shuttle goes to Yas island where I planned to go for dinner. I realise quickly I need to do something in this hour or sleep is unavoidable. I have Pilates on my iPad so what better way to relax, stretch my achy muscles from the plane and stay awake then having a wee floor work out session. It almost made me late but I did make the bus to Yas. On the way to Yas island we passed Masdar city which is a city within Abu Dhabi which is completely 'green'. The Eco friendly solar powered city. I had watched a documentary of it on the plane on the way over so it was nice to pass by it even if I could not visit it. 

Yas island is home to the formula 1 race track and home of Ferrari world. I went to a restaurant at Yas island marina to enjoy a salad and a glass of red wine. So nice eating al fresco in the evening with warm temperatures. By the time the shuttle was due, I was more than ready for bed. I got to my room by 9:30pm and the next thing I knew I woke up on my bed 10:30pm - oops! Fell asleep and I hadn't even set my alarm. I removed my make up, got changed, set the alarm and tucked in. 

Next stop London.